I’d heard & read a lot about the bountiful wildlife that Gujarat’s forests have to offer. I’d even seen photos from others’ trips. Now, having visited Gujarat, I can say that no amount of research or familiarity with the wildlife there prepares you for the experience. The sense of déjà vu you’re so worried about, doesn’t strike. You may have seen the Sarus crane in many a photo, but, when you see it there, it still leaves you awestruck. The Wild Asses may seem familiar but when you see them gallop over the parched desert, your heart still skips a beat.
This is the first in a three-part blog about my Gujarat trip. Read part two, about the Little Rann of Kutch, here. Read part three, about the Greater Rann of Kutch, here.
The grasslands of Velavadar, swathes of pink & green, make for a fetching backdrop to all the action. A drive on a typical cold winter morning begins with vistas of misty grass, interspersed with horns & antlers. As the morning warms up, faces peer out from within the grass & limbs are languorously stretched. You watch as the grass rustles to reveal a curious Blackbuck fawn or a skulking Wolf. Sometimes, the rustling grass reveals the skulking Wolf to the curious fawn. And a chase ensues. Suddenly, the morning languor is all but forgotten as the agile Blackbuck out-runs the Wolf. Later in the day, in the hot sun, raptors skim the top of the grass as they scout for prey. After dusk, activity tapers down as the nip returns to the air. Harriers, in hundreds, return to a clearing, to roost. Nocturnal life is now active, but unfortunately, we have to leave the park. Sometimes, as we sit outside our rooms, we’re lucky to spot a Jungle cat or a Hare, just before it turns pitch dark.
Green Bee-eater |
This is the first in a three-part blog about my Gujarat trip. Read part two, about the Little Rann of Kutch, here. Read part three, about the Greater Rann of Kutch, here.
Blackbucks heading home as the sun sets |
Blackbucks stretching themselves early in the morning |
A Steppe Eagle |
Pardon the anthropomorphism, as I bring you stories straight from the horses’ mouths.
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She looked ravishing in the evening light. I watched her for sometime as she ate; her slender, long neck bending so gracefully. I wanted her to look at me, to notice me, to like me. But, more than that, I wanted to keep looking at her. The grass was a little tall & it kept getting in my way; that irritated me a bit. I slowly moved towards her, unsure of her response. She didn’t move away. The setting was perfect: the grass glowing with a tinge of gold and delicate pink flowers bobbing in the cool breeze. Most importantly, there was nobody else in the fields. A few vehicles occasionally drove down the dusty, narrow road but I ignored them & so did they. Finally, I was right next to her. She lifted her head up & gazed at me.
I spread my wings out & began to dance. I’d practised really hard & I hoped that she liked it. She joined me; there we were, like two excited teenagers, prancing around. I closed my eyes; this was bliss! I heard her say “lovely”, “awesome”; and I was happier.
I spread my wings out & began to dance. I’d practised really hard & I hoped that she liked it. She joined me; there we were, like two excited teenagers, prancing around. I closed my eyes; this was bliss! I heard her say “lovely”, “awesome”; and I was happier.
I opened my eyes to see that it wasn’t her but a group of humans who had uttered that. Both of us stopped for a minute, unsure of what to do. We flew a little further afield.
I was very worried that she would fly away, but, she didn’t. She landed next to me. Our eyes locked once more. We danced once more. It was a wonderful evening!
Later, one of the other birds told me that the group of humans too had continued watching us. They’d lain on the road, concealed behind some grass & taken photos of us. Well, I’m sure she looks lovely in the photos!
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Feeding on a road-kill |
I ensure I’m hidden behind the tall grass. I come across a couple of Blackbucks ahead & chuckle. The poor things don’t even suspect that I’m there; walking as peacefully as they are. They’re lucky that I already have food today; else I’d be chasing them right now! I ponder; should I attempt to catch one of them? I decide against it; after all, a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. I don’t want my arch rival snatching my carcass like he did the last time, when he caught me off-guard. I wait for the Blackbucks to cross & then move ahead.
Prey in mouth, waiting for the Blackbuck to pass |
I look back for good measure & am surprised to see a jeep-full of people looking at me. They’re all desperately trying to photograph me but I’m too far away. I laugh; I’m no good looker, but, people seem to get really excited when they see me. Their expressions, exclamations & the incessant photo-taking of my every move amuses me. I’m tempted to go towards them, just to see the wonderment on their faces. I decide against it & move towards the road. There’s that whirring noise, now! Do they have to cut grass early in the morning? For that matter, do they have to cut it at all? I’m quite happy when the grass is tall & it makes it easier for me to skulk around. I sulk a little & wait. As the grass-cutter moves away, I break into a trot & run towards the road. I now spot a man with a bike right in my path. Bah! But, suddenly, I hear voices call out to him & he climbs up the embankment & onto the road. Great! I hurry up the embankment myself; I can’t wait to go home. Maybe I’ll hide the carcass here & come back for it later; I don’t want my neighbours to spot it & fight me for it.
Walking right next to the jeep |
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Nilgai - cozy in the grass |
We reach the other side & busy ourselves eating. A couple of my friends spar a bit over this beautiful girl. The ‘rat-tat-tat’ from the humans reaches a crescendo.
Males sparring over a female |
That evening, my friend saw the humans near the watering-hole, as his herd went there for a drink. One of the females in the herd is white as a ghost, absolutely colourless. The humans wanted to probably look at her; many have been coming by since word spread about the ‘albino Blackbuck’.
A female devoid of colour, with her fawn |
Another evening, the humans (do they call themselves ‘gang’?) were watching a fellow Blackbuck’s herd. Unknown to the herd, a wolf had been lurking on the opposite side of the road, carefully watching them. The jeep was on the road, right between the wolf & the herd. The gang must’ve spotted the wolf, for they all turned away to admire him.
I wish the head of the herd had sensed something amiss when the entire gang suddenly began watching someone else. The wolf mustn’t have budgeted for the humans turning up at his hunt, but, he guessed their jeep would probably make for a good cover as he crossed the road. He didn’t worry about the gang anymore; he realised that they wouldn’t make any noise & disturb the hunt. He knew how thrilled they’d all be, to see him so close; they’d definitely not want to chase him away. Soon, hidden by the jeep, he reached the road & darted across. The herd finally sensed him & scooted, faster than the gaping humans could have imagined. The wolf had to give up his chase, though; he was hunting alone & there was no way he could go for the kill. My friend & his herd had a lucky escape.
I wish the head of the herd had sensed something amiss when the entire gang suddenly began watching someone else. The wolf mustn’t have budgeted for the humans turning up at his hunt, but, he guessed their jeep would probably make for a good cover as he crossed the road. He didn’t worry about the gang anymore; he realised that they wouldn’t make any noise & disturb the hunt. He knew how thrilled they’d all be, to see him so close; they’d definitely not want to chase him away. Soon, hidden by the jeep, he reached the road & darted across. The herd finally sensed him & scooted, faster than the gaping humans could have imagined. The wolf had to give up his chase, though; he was hunting alone & there was no way he could go for the kill. My friend & his herd had a lucky escape.
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I travelled to Velavadar:
With naturalists & wildlife photographers Harsha J & Dilan Mandanna
For information & tips about Velavadar, read this:
http://nomadandabag-guides.blogspot.com/2013/01/gujarat-information-tips.html