Showing posts with label Agumbe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Agumbe. Show all posts

Saturday, 14 September 2013

Under my Umbrella


Revellers await the rain at Worli sea-face, Bombay


















A few weeks before the monsoon arrived, we aired out our umbrellas and ensured they needed no repairs. Families went out to buy raincoats and 'rainy shoes'; sometimes, gumboots too. Its arrival coincided with the beginning of a new year at school. We lined the insides of our school bags with plastic covers to prevent our meticulously-wrapped brown paper books from turning into soggy, brown pulp. We shoved crackling plastic bags with a set of ‘change clothes' into already overstuffed work-drawers. 

Gola at Juhu beach
On the day it arrived, we'd all ritualistically run out to dance and get soaked in the first rain. Once it set in, we incessantly looked out of windows and craved pakodas and chai. And we sighed, because on most days, we couldn't get any. Some days, we did get them and we’d be over the moon. Other days, 'makai’ or ‘bhutta’ were a source of great joy too. Sometimes, just for the thrill, we’d indulge in monsoon taboos like gola.

We swathed our feet with 'Band-aids' because our 'rainy shoes' would bite. It didn't matter that the Band-aids would get washed away while wading through calf-deep water. We'd assiduously stick on some more. We'd roll up our trousers, jeans or salwars; I quite think we invented capris. We'd hanker for 'rainy songs' on the radio. We'd think nothing of stepping out in cyclonic storms to get to work, to school, to meet somebody or buy something; the only option would have been to remain home-bound for almost four months. 

A few weeks later, irritation would set in - no more summer mangoes to eat, roads getting flooded, wearing semi-wet clothes most of the time, wading through filthy water, bags getting wet, falling ill. Nonetheless, at the end of each May, we'd sing "Ye re, ye re paoosaa, tula deto paisa, paise jhala khota, paoos aala motha", a Marathi song enticing the monsoon to arrive. The biggest perk of the monsoon obliging was getting sudden holidays - when your road was flooded or your office, school or college was. Though that wasn’t more than a couple of days in a month, it was still looked forward to. Nothing's sweeter than your boss calling to tell you not to come in today, just as you were donning your rainy shoes to step out to catch the 9:29 Churchgate fast.

That's monsoon in Bombay for you, where I grew up. We shared a love-hate relationship with it, as turbulent as the rain-bearing clouds. Each June, we transitioned from summer in a well-oiled drill, to make the monsoon a part of our lives for the next few months. After I moved out of Bombay, I began craving the rains. So, each year, I decided to travel during the monsoons; not to cities, but, to places where I could enjoy it without any of the cares associated with monsoons in Bombay. 

A few times, it didn't rain at all, like when I was at Ashtamudi, Kerala, one August, which is supposed to be peak monsoon. Hubby and I sat longingly by the backwaters, waiting for raindrops to pelt our cottage roof. Sometimes, dark clouds lined the sky and filled me with hope, but it wasn’t meant to be. Once, when the rain wasn’t yet expected, I had a wet trip to Wayanad, Kerala, in the pre-monsoons. Travelling with a bunch of friends, the unexpected showers were fun and brought with them lots of steaming hot chaaya, comfort food, laughter-filled mad scrambles to seek shelter and hiking around Wayanad’s slippery, hilly terrain. 

Monsoon clouds over Ashtamudi Lake
Meenmutty falls, Wayanad

Another year, I spent time only at rainforests, but in two different parts of the world - Valparai, Tamil Nadu, and Borneo. That rain is indeed a life-giver was reinforced by seeing the forests come alive with swathes of green. Fungi sprung in profusion. And, getting wet with us were tiny critters and towering trees. Yet another trip was spent loafing around Belgaum, Karnataka, with friends, hopping from one waterfall to another. And of course, gorging on monsoon favourites dished up by our friend’s mother and a nearby bakery. Last year, I battled leeches at Agumbe, Karnataka, in vain. Most visible were the five bites on my neck, referred to as my ‘pearl necklace’, thanks to the calamine lotion on each bite to reduce itchiness. The unrelenting rain also meant we didn’t bathe for all the three days we were there, due to a lack of hot water.

A Jewel Beetle in the monsoon, Valparai

Dipterocarps shrouded in the evening mist, on a rainy evening at Borneo

Picturesque hut on the 'viewpoint hilltop' at Belgaum

Raindrops bounce off a Vine snake at Agumbe

This year, I was blown away (pun intended) watching the southwest monsoon arrive into India's southern tip, as Radha and I joined our friend Arati, as she chased the monsoon for her story. I remember this trip for the giggle-fest it was and for uninhibitedly getting soaked each day as we chased the chaser of the monsoon. 

Fishermen haul in their catch under a 'first-monsoon' sky in South Kerala

I followed it up with a road-trip with hubby, through central Kerala. We spent time at a beach, by the backwaters and at a forest. We also timed our trip to watch the famous snake-boat race at Alleppey. 

Emerald-green paddy fields, mist and water cascades - a typical monsoon day in Kerala

With a visit to Bandipur this month, this is the most I’ve ever travelled in the monsoon. After four months of being a constant companion, my rain gear has just been packed away in the loft. Until next year, then!     

Goat-herd, Banyan and monsoon clouds - at Bandipur

Monday, 31 December 2012

2012 Travel Calendar

On the heels of travel-filled 2011, this year was a mixed bag. I kept up with the previous year's momentum in the first half of 2012. As the saying goes, "All good things must come to an end"; so did my carefree travelling.

I ended my 15-month sabbatical in June, and, having had to set up my independent work, I've not been able to travel since. Before you wonder how my calendar looks full without travelling, I want to clarify that it wasn't as much travelling as I'd like; I did manage to sneak in a few trips, though. Writing, unfortunately, took a huge back-seat. Day-dreaming about my sparse trips kept me going.

As 2012 draws to a close, I hope the next year brings more new experiences everybody’s way, more new friends and more places to fall for. And, I hope to get back to writing my stories, which I've so missed. Here’s where 2012 saw me:


Chikmagalur
The mystic Baba Budan certainly chose well, when he decided to plant coffee here. Hill-dappled & cool Chikmagalur has perfect weather to grow coffee in and grow lazy in. When the weather proposes, why dispose? I suitably lolled about, in an estate aptly called 'Linger'. I walked through the estate, spotted birds, trekked and enjoyed the local cuisine. For those not inclined to laze, Chikmagalur is surrounded by dense forests, trekking routes and pilgrimage spots.

BR Hills
With trees flowering in full bloom in February, the forest was at its best, as if bedecked with flaming gold & orange jewellery. Hours spent driving through this tiny forest, in the company of friends, made this a fun-filled trip. I also had a pee-in-the-pant moment, when a herd of elephants blocked our route into the forest and sent a vehicle ahead of us scampering back in reverse gear. Luckily, after some wait, they moved down-hill and we could move on.







Kaziranga national park, Nameri tiger reserve and Hoollongappar gibbon sanctuary
This was a ten-day trip to a part of the country I had not visited before. Here, the moody Brahmaputra heaves his way through pristine, verdant countryside, creating vast flood-plains. People and animals both venerate and are intimidated by this river, which is this region's boon as well as bane, due to periodic flooding. For me, sighting the one-horned Rhinoceros, the Hoolock Gibbon and rafting down the Jia Bharali River looking for birds were highlights of the trip. See my photo-essay here: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-time-last-year-kaziranga-nameri.html


Coorg
If the phrase 'bummed around' were to literally mean 'seat one's posterior around the place', that is what would summarise this trip to Coorg. A bunch of friends at a friend's coffee plantation, this holiday was for eating and lounging. We moved only to go to the dining table or to reach out for more of the yummy food. Ridden by guilt, we did spend a few hours practising star-trail photography, amply aided by Coorg's unpolluted & clear skies.
Gir
The last bastion of Asiatic lions, Gir allowed me my first ever view of a lion outside the zoo. The hot April week took me through shrivelled, brown forests where lions camouflaged easily. I was rewarded with sightings of a handsome young male, a battle-worn elder marking his territory and a lioness with her daughter, amongst other birds and animals. The excitement continued as our driver almost had us miss our flight back and we had to endure a manic, movie chase-style drive through old Ahmedabad's dusty, narrow markets and alleys. Read about my Gir trip: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.com/2013/07/a-summer-at-gir.html

Tadoba
Tadoba in the scorching summer heat - madness or not? My apprehensions melted (pun intended) when I set foot into this beautiful forest. At the risk of sounding clichéd, it was love at first sight; suddenly, the heat didn't matter anymore. Leaving Tadoba was very difficult; after ten days, it had begun to feel like home. I finally saw my first ever tiger at Tadoba. When I wasn't seeing tigers, I had numerous other birds & mammals to keep me company.


Read about a trip when I almost spotted my first Tiger: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.com/2012/02/when-tiger-stood-me-up.html

Pench
I arrived here from Tadoba at the ungodly hour of 2 a.m. and went on safaris for two days. An admirer of all flora and fauna, I set out eagerly in this forest, said to have inspired Rudyard Kipling's 'Jungle book'. Pench had other plans for me, though, and revealed nothing to me except langurs, vultures and a kingfisher. Not even deer or many other birds. Sigh!


Agumbe
Accessed by driving through winding roads & moist rain-forests, Agumbe welcomed me with non-stop rain. They don't call it the wettest place in South India for nothing. The monsoons are a good time to spot frogs and, if you are lucky, the King Cobra. A wet weekend spent without electricity (even at night) and an abundance of leeches, it took me a week after return to get the dampness out of everything, including myself. My camera, which had succumbed to the humidity and moisture within the first few hours at Agumbe, took a couple of weeks to recover, though.


Pondicherry
The only time in life when I spent almost an entire holiday sleeping! Getting away from a particularly stressful and sleep-deprived time at work, Pondicherry was the perfect antidote. A fabulous drive from Bangalore set the pace for the trip. I'd also booked myself into a resort at the outskirts, a rarity for somebody who loves home-stays and B&Bs. Right by the beach, I bummed around, enjoying the sea, the walks and the food. I set out to Pondicherry one day, to show my other-half the beach promenade, the French & Tamil quarters and Auroville. But, languor forced me right back to my beach and my sleep. I relented; sometimes, you need these breaks where you do absolutely nothing.


Yercaud
It's close enough to Salem to be treated by locals as a part of their city, and, close enough to Bangalore to make it a 'day-trip' option for some. So, what was I doing staying here for three days? Even the hotel staff was surprised.

Bangalore
How many of us have not 'seen' the very places we live in? In Bangalore for 9 years now, I’d not yet fully explored the city. I decided to remedy that this year. Bangalore has the dubious distinction of not having "anything to do"; I set out to find if that's true. And I must admit, the city did have me stumped for a bit. But, soon, I discovered that the city's attractions were not 'in your face'; you had to dig deep to enjoy it. From temples to parks to odd palaces and museums to pubs, I explored Bangalore and also contributed to a small online guide about the city.
Read this for information I put together about Bangalore: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.com/2013/01/namma-bengaluru.html