Showing posts with label Belgaum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Belgaum. Show all posts

Saturday, 14 September 2013

Under my Umbrella


Revellers await the rain at Worli sea-face, Bombay


















A few weeks before the monsoon arrived, we aired out our umbrellas and ensured they needed no repairs. Families went out to buy raincoats and 'rainy shoes'; sometimes, gumboots too. Its arrival coincided with the beginning of a new year at school. We lined the insides of our school bags with plastic covers to prevent our meticulously-wrapped brown paper books from turning into soggy, brown pulp. We shoved crackling plastic bags with a set of ‘change clothes' into already overstuffed work-drawers. 

Gola at Juhu beach
On the day it arrived, we'd all ritualistically run out to dance and get soaked in the first rain. Once it set in, we incessantly looked out of windows and craved pakodas and chai. And we sighed, because on most days, we couldn't get any. Some days, we did get them and we’d be over the moon. Other days, 'makai’ or ‘bhutta’ were a source of great joy too. Sometimes, just for the thrill, we’d indulge in monsoon taboos like gola.

We swathed our feet with 'Band-aids' because our 'rainy shoes' would bite. It didn't matter that the Band-aids would get washed away while wading through calf-deep water. We'd assiduously stick on some more. We'd roll up our trousers, jeans or salwars; I quite think we invented capris. We'd hanker for 'rainy songs' on the radio. We'd think nothing of stepping out in cyclonic storms to get to work, to school, to meet somebody or buy something; the only option would have been to remain home-bound for almost four months. 

A few weeks later, irritation would set in - no more summer mangoes to eat, roads getting flooded, wearing semi-wet clothes most of the time, wading through filthy water, bags getting wet, falling ill. Nonetheless, at the end of each May, we'd sing "Ye re, ye re paoosaa, tula deto paisa, paise jhala khota, paoos aala motha", a Marathi song enticing the monsoon to arrive. The biggest perk of the monsoon obliging was getting sudden holidays - when your road was flooded or your office, school or college was. Though that wasn’t more than a couple of days in a month, it was still looked forward to. Nothing's sweeter than your boss calling to tell you not to come in today, just as you were donning your rainy shoes to step out to catch the 9:29 Churchgate fast.

That's monsoon in Bombay for you, where I grew up. We shared a love-hate relationship with it, as turbulent as the rain-bearing clouds. Each June, we transitioned from summer in a well-oiled drill, to make the monsoon a part of our lives for the next few months. After I moved out of Bombay, I began craving the rains. So, each year, I decided to travel during the monsoons; not to cities, but, to places where I could enjoy it without any of the cares associated with monsoons in Bombay. 

A few times, it didn't rain at all, like when I was at Ashtamudi, Kerala, one August, which is supposed to be peak monsoon. Hubby and I sat longingly by the backwaters, waiting for raindrops to pelt our cottage roof. Sometimes, dark clouds lined the sky and filled me with hope, but it wasn’t meant to be. Once, when the rain wasn’t yet expected, I had a wet trip to Wayanad, Kerala, in the pre-monsoons. Travelling with a bunch of friends, the unexpected showers were fun and brought with them lots of steaming hot chaaya, comfort food, laughter-filled mad scrambles to seek shelter and hiking around Wayanad’s slippery, hilly terrain. 

Monsoon clouds over Ashtamudi Lake
Meenmutty falls, Wayanad

Another year, I spent time only at rainforests, but in two different parts of the world - Valparai, Tamil Nadu, and Borneo. That rain is indeed a life-giver was reinforced by seeing the forests come alive with swathes of green. Fungi sprung in profusion. And, getting wet with us were tiny critters and towering trees. Yet another trip was spent loafing around Belgaum, Karnataka, with friends, hopping from one waterfall to another. And of course, gorging on monsoon favourites dished up by our friend’s mother and a nearby bakery. Last year, I battled leeches at Agumbe, Karnataka, in vain. Most visible were the five bites on my neck, referred to as my ‘pearl necklace’, thanks to the calamine lotion on each bite to reduce itchiness. The unrelenting rain also meant we didn’t bathe for all the three days we were there, due to a lack of hot water.

A Jewel Beetle in the monsoon, Valparai

Dipterocarps shrouded in the evening mist, on a rainy evening at Borneo

Picturesque hut on the 'viewpoint hilltop' at Belgaum

Raindrops bounce off a Vine snake at Agumbe

This year, I was blown away (pun intended) watching the southwest monsoon arrive into India's southern tip, as Radha and I joined our friend Arati, as she chased the monsoon for her story. I remember this trip for the giggle-fest it was and for uninhibitedly getting soaked each day as we chased the chaser of the monsoon. 

Fishermen haul in their catch under a 'first-monsoon' sky in South Kerala

I followed it up with a road-trip with hubby, through central Kerala. We spent time at a beach, by the backwaters and at a forest. We also timed our trip to watch the famous snake-boat race at Alleppey. 

Emerald-green paddy fields, mist and water cascades - a typical monsoon day in Kerala

With a visit to Bandipur this month, this is the most I’ve ever travelled in the monsoon. After four months of being a constant companion, my rain gear has just been packed away in the loft. Until next year, then!     

Goat-herd, Banyan and monsoon clouds - at Bandipur

Thursday, 18 August 2011

Belgaum


View from hill-top viewpoint
“Ninnindale, Ninnindale, kanasondu shuruvaagide.
Ninnindale, Ninnindale, Manasindu kunidaadide”

“You are the cause of my new dream.
You are the cause of my heart dancing”

Cheerful sunflowers on a grey day
crooned an ebullient Sonu Nigam in Kannada; as I poked my head out of the car window, soaking in the verdure. The mood created by what my ears heard complemented what my eyes saw & this song had me humming along. Frankly, I’d had no expectations from Belgaum & it was turning out to be a pleasant surprise. So much was the lack of expectation, that I hadn’t carried my camera with me; something I would regret later. As the beauty begged to be captured, my friend’s ‘point & shoot’ would come to the rescue.

My friend, whose home it is, always ended up being the target of our leg-pulling about his ‘small town’ or ‘Bull town’ (Belgaum does not mean ‘bull town’, by the way; that was just a literal translation we used to tease him with). He would challenge us to visit Belgaum with him so that he could show us how beautiful it was. A huge gang decided to finally take up the offer. But, at the last minute, people dropped out due to various reasons. We would have cancelled the trip altogether hadn’t the three of us decided to go ahead with the plan; we were in the mood for a trip, gang or no gang. So, it ended up being 3 girls in Belgaum. We set up camp at our friend’s house & imposed on his poor mom, who patiently cooked yummy breakfast for us before we headed out each morning.

Hut with a view at the viewpoint
People run to escape the ulta baarish
The rain beat down on us every day but we didn’t mind. That’s what made it so much fun to eat hot goodies at MK Swamy’s, a Belgaum institution & popular hang-out. We dutifully trooped in there morning & evening, to have our fill. Nothing gourmet: just homely, piping hot munchies on a cold, rainy day; standing with friends on the road outside. The rain was also what made it fun to walk around the hill-top viewpoint, where the sun highlighted waterfalls & streams cascading down green slopes. When the rain stopped briefly, we had the ‘ulta baarish’ or the ‘upside-down rain’: the strong wind blowing a waterfall upwards at one particular spot, drenching all of us standing on the hill-top. Great fun to play in!















Yet another viewpoint allowed us to walk onto a cliff, mossy-green & misty. Sit there & you can see nothing else around you, except a green carpet. Even tree trunks & branches are clothed in moss, due to the almost perennial rainfall. The rain also meant that the waterfalls were bursting forth at their seams. There’s Gokak falls with a rickety suspension bridge over it. As it cascades over horizontal granite slabs before the steep plunge, you can feel its raw power. 


Gokak Falls & a small Hoysala-style temple next to it


Moss covered trees

Then, there’s the tiny & intimate Godachinmalki falls, which allows you to walk into it & play. It’s so small, you feel like Goliath. It’s fun sitting on rocks by the falls, swinging your feet over the water. The far end of the falls has a steep drop, though. Both these falls can be seen from at least 2 viewpoints, each with different views; ensure you do that. Don’t miss the sunflower fields as you drive from Belgaum to these falls; they look stunning with a dramatic monsoon sky as the backdrop.

 
Amboli Falls
The rain also brought out the full glory of the Amboli falls, just across the border; in Maharashtra. Alas, we were not to see that. What we saw instead, was a cascade of people in un-flatteringly wet clothes; not a pleasant sight at all. Add some groping to it & we were totally repulsed. Our mistake; we’d ventured there on a weekend. Another friend who went on a weekday had the loveliest time. You can climb up to the middle of the falls & enjoy the water. The saving grace was the vada-pav stalls. We sat there gorging on piping hot & fiery vada pavs, trying to ignore the waterfall.

While in Belgaum, feast on some Kunda & Kardant, two sweets that are a local specialty. Kardant is made of dry fruits & jaggery and is a bit of an acquired taste. I bought Kardant from shops at Gokak falls. Kunda is a melt-in-your-mouth milk sweet, made with heavily reduced milk & khoa. This, I purchased from ‘Purohit’ in the cantonment area, next to MK Swamys. And oh yeah, we spent an evening relaxing at ‘Ajanta Café’, a youth hang-out at Belgaum & my friend’s favourite. It’s a nice little place to sit & have some sandwiches & coffee.

Belgaum is definitely not to be dismissed as a fun holiday destination; especially during the monsoons. I still haven’t seen everything that it has to offer: the Hidkal dam, Jain temples and the Fort. Even the Dudhsagar Falls in Goa are only 120 odd kms away & easily accessible as a day trip from Belgaum.

I must admit this: I’m glad my friend challenged us to come. Maybe we should thank ourselves; he may not have invited us hadn’t we riled him about his ‘bull-town’……some good things do happen by annoying your friends, after all!

Quick facts:

  • Belgaum is at its most beautiful during / after the monsoons when you can enjoy the green vistas & the waterfalls. Visit then (July-October).  
  • Belgaum is conveniently connected by train and bus, from Bangalore. Both depart at night to deposit you at Belgaum early in the morning.
  • I stayed at hotel ‘Kshema Inn’ on Khanapur main road, during another visit to Belgaum. It’s one of the best in the town & I had no major complaints. Makes for a comfortable base.
  • Gokak & Godachinmalki falls are approx 60-70 kms from Belgaum. Both can be clubbed together in a day.  
  • Amboli requires approx. 70 kms of travel in another direction, on another day. On this day, you can take in the view points along the way.  
  • Hire a car & a driver to drive to all the sights….that’s what we did. It’s not too expensive.   
  • Within Belgaum, you have autos to get around.


    Photo credit: some photos by Preethi Reddy & Hema Priya K